One of the most important timepieces ever made by Breguet, ranking among the most significant wristwatches in history. One of only two known and first to market.
More exciting than being a fly on the wall in that day and age – to be a certain watch on the wrist of a certain individual. Paul Iribe left an indelible trace on his era as a designer and graphic artist. Seen here with Cecil B. DeMille, whose movie sets he designed in the early 1930s Hollywood. To Coco Chanel (right), Iribe was not only the ‘most complicated man’, but also the man of her life. Tragically, just four years into their intense relationship, he passed away on the tennis court at La Pausa, Chanel’s Riviera retreat.
A groundbreaking horological achievement: this Breguet 3218, crafted in 1935, has never before been at auction before being entrusted to Christie’s.
Estimate: CHF 100,000-200,000 | US $120,000-240,000 | €110,000-210,000
Geneva — Among the treasures to be presented at the upcoming Rare Watches auction in Geneva in November, Christie’s will offer an exceptionally rare and historically important timepiece: Breguet No. 3218. This tonneau-shaped perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date and moon phases, produced in 1935, was sold to the celebrated French designer Paul Iribe, known for his significant contributions to Art Deco design, the graphic arts and even Hollywood movie sets. Iribe’s close association with Coco Chanel and his influence in design history enhance the watch’s already profound cultural significance.
A unique horological innovation in its time, for all time
The Breguet No. 3218 stands as an important milestone in the history of watchmaking. As one of only two known Breguet perpetual calendar wristwatches with a retrograde date from the pre-war era, this timepiece represents a groundbreaking moment in horological innovation. Its movement is an early example of the technical advancements that Breguet pioneered, showcasing the brand’s precision and innovation during the early 20th century. This wristwatch is among the earliest perpetual calendar models ever produced by Breguet, with features that were rare and advanced for its time.
A Masterpiece with historical and artistic context
Paul Iribe’s acquisition of this wristwatch adds further historical significance. An undisputed talent as a designer in the fields of textiles, advertising, graphics, and stage design, he was also a leading figure in the Art Deco movement. Iribe was closely associated with Coco Chanel, collaborating on a number of creative projects, including her first high jewelry collection. Their relationship was both deeply personal and professional, lasting until Iribe’s untimely death in 1935. This particular watch reflects the refined tastes of the period and embodies the artistic spirit of the era. It stands as a symbol of both Breguet’s technical prowess but also of the cultural and aesthetic zeitgeist of the time.
