Vacheron Constantin pays tribute to its long legacy of refined craftsmanship and technical savoir-faire with three new interpretations of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, set in a case measuring 36.5 mm by 8.43 mm. Two models – one in 18K 5N pink gold and one in 18K white gold – are the first non-gem-set Traditionnelle watches to be offered in this case size and are complemented by a second 18K white gold model with a diamond-set bezel.
A contemporary heir to 18th-century Haute Horlogerie tradition
Appreciated by connoisseurs of classical Haute Horlogerie for both its refined aesthetic codes and its technical prowess, the Traditionnelle collection is imbued with the spirit of 18th-century high watchmaking – a spirit that has defined Vacheron Constantin ever since it was founded in 1755.
With aesthetics always at the service of functionality, the classical allure of traditional watchmaking is translated into distinctively elegant, contemporary design codes: a stepped round case and fluted caseback; straight-sided lugs and a slender bezel. The dial designs emphasise balance, proportion and legibility, with a railway minute-track, faceted Dauphine-type hands and applied gold baton-style hour-markers.
The perpetual calendar is deeply anchored in the Maison’s history. The first example made by Vacheron Constantin was an 1884 perpetual calendar observatory watch now held in the Maison’s private collection. A complex mechanism, the perpetual calendar must automatically adjust to take into account the anomalies of the Gregorian calendar, including leap years as well as months of different lengths, with no need for manual correction until 2100.
A sought-after calibre
An eloquent expression of Vacheron Constantin’s technical mastery, Calibre 1120 QP reflects the Maison’s expertise in perpetual calendars as well as ultra-thin movements, the latter enabling it to set several records for slimness wristwatches since the 1930s. Ultra-thin movements must achieve a technically highly challenging – balance between the contradictory demands of fine components and robust construction.
With 276 components and a thickness of only 4.05 mm, the self-winding Manufacture calibre 1120 QP incorporates a perpetual calendar with day of the week, date and 48-month display with leap year indication, and a Moon phase and age of the Moon complication, as well as displaying hours and minutes. Commensurate with the mechanical quality of the calibre, watchmaking tradition is upheld by meticulous hand-finishing of the movement components. The mainplate, despite being hidden beneath the dial, is circular grained, while the sapphire crystal caseback reveals Côtes de Genève and hand-bevelling on the bridges, circular satin-finished sinks for the jewels and screws and polished teeth on the going train. Also decorated with Côtes de Genève, the oscillating weight has a 22K gold outer segment and is open-worked in the shape of the Maison’s Maltese cross emblem.
Striking the balance between technical & aesthetic considerations
The technical elegance of the movement architecture and impeccable finishes are matched by the refined aesthetics of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The 36.5 mm diameter case is ideally proportioned for every size of wrist, both masculine and feminine, and was inspired by the dimensions of the Ref. 43031, created in 1983. When it was launched at the peak of the ‘quartz crisis’ – a time of waning interest in mechanical watchmaking – Ref. 43031 put high watchmaking firmly back on the map and was widely regarded as Vacheron Constantin’s quintessential perpetual calendar for the two decades that it was in production.
The timeless proportions and crisp profile of the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin’s case are complemented by the rigorous aesthetics of the dial, which also carries a strong echo of the Ref. 43031. The emphasis is on balance and legibility, enhanced by the traditional silver-toned opaline background. The date, day of the week and month are indicated by hands on three symmetrically placed circular registers that echo the shape of the combined phases and age of the Moon display, located at 6 o’clock.
The pink gold model emphasises tonal harmony, with the colour and material of the 18K 5N pink gold case are repeated in the faceted Dauphine hands and applied baton-style hour markers. Contrast is provided by the dark blue background of the moonphase display, which is matched by a dark blue alligator strap with tone-on-tone stitching.
The white gold model makes a subtle play on the classical colour palette, with hands and applied hour markers in 18K 5N pink gold and a lighter blue background for the moonphase display. A further twist is provided by the strap in a new shade of light brown alligator.
The diamond-set white gold model also adopts a minimalistic colour palette, with the 18K white gold case matched by hands and hour-markers in the same metal, and the cool white sparkle of grain-set diamonds on the bezel, top of the lugs and crown echoing the silvery tone of the opaline dial. The dark blue moonphase background is matched by a dark blue alligator strap.
Honouring the codes of traditional Haute Horlogerie in contemporary form, the three new Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 36.5 mm watches are epitomising the Maison’s philosophy of balancing technicality and beauty, past and present.
