At the artgenève, the House of Gübelin is celebrating two premieres at once: the art collaboration with Claudia Limacher as well as a cocktail ring featuring a spectacular spinel. The art collaboration between Gübelin and Claudia Limacher invites visitors to discover a universe of colours and floral structures. Inspired by the inner world of a gemstone, the high-carat Ornament of Flowers cocktail ring was created, set with a colour-changing spinel, as well as Claudia Limacher’s abstract painting Blooming Universe.
As part of the artgenève, the House of Gübelin presents its latest art collaboration. Both the team from the jewellery atelier as well as the artist Claudia Limacher found inspiration in the fascinating inner world of a gemstone to create their works. They also jointly conceived the design of the fair booth which makes a visit into a true experience. The presentation at the art fair itself reflects the unique inspiration in which the creative partners immerse themselves into the photomicrography of the Ornament of Flowers line and then interpret the image in their individual genre and materials.
Ornament of Flowers
At the art fair in Geneva, Gübelin Jewellery presents its latest haute joaillerie creation. This one-of-a-kind piece is an opulent cocktail ring from the Ornament of Flowers line. The cocktail ring is set with the iconic ruby, which adorns every piece of Gübelin Jewellery while also embodying the nature of the art collaboration: sharing knowledge and inspiration. To mark this collaboration, Gübelin Jewellery is presenting for the first time a creation from this line adorned with a spinel.
Spinels are rare and among hardest of gemstones. Especially in recent years, the demand for spinels has markedly increased. For this high-carat cocktail ring, Gübelin Jewellery chose a spectacular spinel, one which changes its colour depending on the light source. In sunlight, it radiates blue and under artificial light in purplish-violet. This 12.13 ct spinel has a highly recognisable colour change, which makes the gemstone stand out.
This spinel displays a further unique characteristic: the radiant blue is caused by a mixture of the colour-determining elements of cobalt and iron, with cobalt being the dominant element. This combination creates the saturated and homogenous colour of the gemstone, which makes it highly sought-after. The fine and precise cut brings the spinel’s qualities to full bloom. In selecting this specimen, Gübelin Jewellery again demonstrates the highest level of expertise in gemmology along with its access to unique gemstones.
Raphael Gübelin, President of the House of Gübelin, explains: “Our family-owned firm stands for coloured gems. We love the wide range of colours and gemstones of select quality. Spinels have significantly grown in interest. For this cocktail ring we found an extremely rare spinel that changes colours, much to the delight of both jewellery and gemstone connoisseurs.”
The Ornament of Flowers cocktail ring is characterised by the organic shapes and the variety of cuts. They lend the design lively light refractions and an exciting dynamic. The individual white gold threads join together to form the ring band. The bold curvature is highlighted by the sophisticated mix of cuts crafted especially for the diamond baguettes and brilliant-cut diamonds used in this ring. Additionally, pear and marquise-shape diamonds form a stylised bouquet of flowers. The impressive spinel of over 12 ct seems to float above the sculpturally composed ring. Adding to this, the company’s own atelier created a setting that lends the spinel both luminescence and lightness. It is held in place by four elegant prongs that allow the gemstone to glisten, highlighting the striking change of colour.
Designers placed the iconic Gübelin ruby directly alongside the spinel. This sparkling red gemstone forms the pistil of the blossom, while also lending the cocktail ring a further colourful highlight. The cabochon-cut ruby is from Greenland. Greenland rubies are among the most responsibly sourced of their kind.
For centuries, rubies have been associated with love and passion. They hold a special meaning for the House of Gübelin, symbolising the company’s Deeply Inspired philosophy. This is why every piece of jewellery from Gübelin is set with a ruby, embodying the family’s passion for coloured gemstones.
Claudia Limacher is an artist as well as a gallerist. As co-founder of the Impulse Gallery, she has created a platform for contemporary artists. She holds a degree in business consultancy, but ten years ago she dedicated herself completely to art, opening her gallery in Lucerne in 2020. Her works can be found in private collections across Europe, Asia and the USA.
Colours have a deep meaning for Claudia Limacher. She is a synaesthesia artist who sees sounds, words, numbers and emotions as colours. These impressions are expressed in her art. While cooperating with Gübelin, she found inspiration in the colours and shapes contained within a gemstone.
The art collaboration between Gübelin and Claudia Limacher is based on the interpretation of the inner world of gemstones. Inspired by the photomicrography, Claudia Limacher created her large-format painting, Blooming Universe. The high-resolution photo of the gemstone reminded the artist of a universe of floral shapes and structures which she interprets abstractly. Claudia Limacher expounds: “During my time in the USA, I was already familiar with spectacular photos which reveal the inner beauty of gemstones and lend them a deeper meaning. During the collaboration with Gübelin, I was able to discover the fascinating inner world of gemstones and transform them into my own art.”
On her impressive 2.5 by 4-meter painting, a blossoming universe presents itself, inviting viewers to dream and make their own personal discoveries. Using acrylics, oil paints, India ink and free pigments in iridescent colours, she captures her inspiration on the canvas. The skilful combination of various techniques calls forth reactions from the materials, resulting in unique effects. Immersing herself in the gemstone, she sets out on a journey across the universe. She shares this experience with viewers of her painting, which reveals new inspirations and further colours depending on the point of view.
Even the design of the fair booth and the manner in which the artworks are presented form a part of the art collaboration, arising from the joint interpretation. From outside, neither the jewellery nor the painting is visible. Visitors pass through a flowered curtain and consciously step into a space where they discover and experience the art collaboration. The purist “black cube” interior intentionally presents itself as a counterpoint to the commonplace “white cubes”. It symbolises on the one hand the inner world of the gemstone as well as the infinite depths of the universe, which Claudia Limacher envisions through her interpretation. The high-resolution photomicrography makes recognizable the unique shapes and forms within the gemstone, as individual as a fingerprint. A further unifying theme can be seen in the floral elements which the photomicrography brings forth, and which are reflected in both the jewellery design and the painting.
The House of Gübelin’s Deeply Inspired philosophy pervades all aspects of the company’s activities. It is based on a unique combination of beauty, knowledge and expertise, always pursuing a deeper understanding of the profession, in tribute to the family’s pioneering spirit. For the House of Gübelin, Deeply Inspired also means sharing its knowledge and inspiration. As in the art collaboration with Claudia Limacher, where the creative partners interpreted the inner world of gemstones and created multi-faceted works of art.