In 2024, Guerlain opened up a new cosmetic rejuvenation pathway for skin, revealing the Orchidée Impériale Gold Nobile skincare line. Drawing on over 20 years’ research dedicated to the mechanisms of cell longevity, for the first time Guerlain Research, in collaboration with a team of biophysicists from Palacký University, revealed its discoveries regarding biophoton emission by skin cells as an indicator of skin’s youth.
The Orchidarium’s researchers then chose the extraordinary Gold Nobile orchid out of 30,000 species, whose extract is capable of restoring the biophoton emission of a skin cell to a level approaching that of a young cell. Infused with this cutting-edge technology, the Serum and the Cream from the Orchidée Impériale Gold Nobile range amplify skin’s visible rejuvenation, acting on the major signs of skin’s youthfulness and luminosity.
In 2025, Guerlain is expanding the Orchidée Impériale Gold Nobile line, targeting the most delicate area of the face with a new eye concentrate treatment. Gold Nobile technology is now combined with a chromatic corrector complexTM to meet the eye contour’s rejuvenating and brightening needs and restore the aura of a youthful eye area.
A STRUCTURALLY UNEVEN AREA
The skin of the eye contour is extremely uneven and fragile. The epidermis in this area is two times thinner and can age up to 1.5 times faster than the rest of the face due to the effects of environmental stress.
Because of its fineness, the skin of the eye contour has fewer collagen, elastin fibres and adipose tissue than the rest of the face, making it less elastic and more prone to fine lines and wrinkles. Each time the eyelid blinks – which it does 10,000 times a day – it singlehandedly uses 22 muscles in constant movement, which accelerates the appearance of the signs of ageing: expression lines, loss of firmness, eyelid sagging, shrinking of the eye area.
It also has few sebaceous glands, which weakens the hydrolipid film, the epidermis’ protective barrier. It is therefore drier, less able to retain moisture and more vulnerable to external aggressors. This combination of factors contributes to a more uneven texture in this delicate area.
Skin’s unevenness in the eye contour is also underscored by the unique structure of this particularly expressive region, which is one of the area of the face with the most varied anatomical structure. Over time, natural contours such as hollows and shadows become more pronounced, accentuating the visibility of the signs of ageing.
AN AREA WITH SIGNIFICANT COLOUR DISPARITY
The eye area is also one of the region of the face with the most pronounced colour disparities. The fineness of the epidermis, dense vascularisation, hyperpigmentation, microreliefs and ageing are all responsible for the formation of three types of dark circles, characterised by the pigmentation of the lower eyelid or eye contour.
Vascular dark circles, which are red, purplish, or blue in colour, are associated with a microcirculation dysfunction in the eye contour. This phenomenon results in a dense and disturbed vascular network. The skin around the eyes being very thin, and therefore transparent, it further exposes the underlying blood vessels.
Brown dark circles or pigmented dark circles are the result of skin hyperpigmentation due to melanin accumulation. They are also associated with the fragility of the skin, as inflammations that can impact it are known to stimulate melanin production, thereby exacerbating visible pigmentary disorders.
Hollow dark circles are mainly linked to a loss of volume of the eye area that causes skin slackening, creating hollows under the eyes, which are often known as tear troughs. These areas of shadow make the eye area look darker, older and more tired.
THE STUDY OF BIOPHOTON EMISSION BY SKIN CELLS AS AN INDICATOR OF YOUTH
In 2024, for the first time, Guerlain Research began to study the infinitesimally small at a biophoton level. During biological reactions, cells emit photons, also known as biophotons. The term UPE (Ultra-weak Photon Emission) is used to describe this phenomenon, invisible to the naked eye. Also known as being elementary constituents of light, photons are emitted in very small amounts and carry a certain amount of energy.
In collaboration with a team of biophysicists at Palacký University, which has the research tools required to measure UPE in a biological context, Guerlain conducted in vitro studies and measured biophoton emission between young skin cells and senescent cells. The results of this research demonstrated significant differences in UPE emission between young and old skin cells, establishing a correlation between this emission and the state of cellular youth.
In 2025, in the wake of these advances, Guerlain renewed its research contract with Palacký University to continue investigating this area, paving the way for new perspectives in skin rejuvenation.
A CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY ON THE MAJOR SIGNS OF YOUTH AND LIGHT
Through its comprehensive action on the parameters of cell regenerescence, Gold Nobile technology offers double efficacy on the factors of skin youthfulness and luminosity. It helps to restructure the signs of youth at the source of shadows in the eye area and targets the hyperpigmentation mechanisms responsible for brown dark circles.
Its performance has been demonstrated by significant activities measured in vitro:
Cell metabolism is boosted by increasing the energy level essential for cell function, with ATP (Adenosine TriPhosphate) synthesis amplified by +21%.
Protection of cells’ DNA structure is reinforced by +34%, which reenergises the expression of skin cells’ youthful codes and prevents them from entering senescence.
A collagen I precursor is stimulated by +105% in young cells and +55% in old cells.
Light traps are reduced by its action on the amount and distribution of melanin as well as glycated proteins, which are sources of colour imperfections.
A NEW ULTRA-SENSORY EXPERIENCE
A true skincare innovation, Guerlain science has combined two complementary sensory experiences at the heart of its eye care formula in the Orchidée Impériale Gold Nobile line. The Eye Concentrate Treatment combines the concentration of a serum with the richness of a cream in a powerful yet sensory formula.
Its “serum-in-cream” texture concentrates all its rejuvenating and brightening efficacy at the heart of a soft and supple emulsion without feeling sticky, or running down into the eyes, to offer the eye area a perfect balance between freshness and a smoothing and lifting effect. On application, the product glides over the skin of the eye contour, covering it with an even and lasting veil that adapts to eyes’ frequent movements. Formulated with a particularly high lipid phase content for a serum, which combines an emollient with a high concentration of squalane, it delivers a velvety feel in perfect affinity with skin. Enriched with a blurring powder, if offers an optical smoothing effect, giving the skin of the eye contour a polished appearance and facilitating the reflection of light.
A true ode to naturalness, The Eye Concentrate Treatment is made up of 95%* naturally-derived ingredients, specially formulated to be tailored to the sensitive eye contour area.
A PRECIOUS GUA SHA STONE
The Eye Concentrate Treatment’s bottle is topped with a Gua Sha stone, whose smooth, rounded tip delivers a 360° massage ritual on skin. Used in conjunction with the five-step technique created by Guerlain spa expert facialists, it doubles the skincare’s efficacy on crow’s feet wrinkles.
Women immediately observe a transformation in the eye contour under the effect of the massage; the eye contour is brighter and visibly lifted. In the long term, the features appear smoothed, the eye area looks revitalised. Day after day, it recovers its youthful aura.
THE GUERLAIN ORCHIDARIUM: THE FIRST RESEARCH CENTRE DEDICATED TO ORCHIDS AND THE SCIENCE OF LONGEVITY
Known for its extraordinary longevity, the orchid has been an inexhaustible source of discoveries for Guerlain science, giving rise to a project of over 15 years on an exceptional scale. The Orchidarium® is the first-ever research platform dedicated solely to one ingredient, observing, studying, protecting and enhancing the secrets orchid at a molecular level, exploring its biological properties linked to longevity. This cutting-edge research platform is responsible for five generations of age-defying technologies within the Orchidée Impériale line, as well as three theses, two patents and more than 60 scientific publications. Within the framework of this project, Guerlain cultivates, observes and experiments in its laboratories established in various centres of expertise worldwide:
THE EXPERIMENTAL GARDEN, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND
Headed by ethnobotanist François Gérard, this exceptional 600-m2 greenhouse is home to a unique collection of 3,000 orchid specimens. The aim is to observe how the plant functions throughout the year and define the optimal conditions to its development to identify the best-performing species in the field of cell longevity.
THE FUNDAMENTAL RESEARCH LABORATORY, GENEVA, SWITZERLAND
Headed by Dr Quentin Favre-Godal in Geneva, this research unit conducts the phytochemical analysis of the orchids identified by the Experimental Garden to identify their key molecules for biological applications for cell longevity.
THE EXPLORATORY RESERVE, TIANZI, CHINA
Headed by Minguo Li-Margraf, in the Chinese province of Yunnan, the flourishing home of one of the birthplaces of orchids worldwide, it covers over 400 hectares. Guerlain has been committed for over 11 years to preserving orchids in their natural habitat as part of a reforestation programme.
Since 2011, 30 hectares of forest have already been rehabilitated, with over 3,000 trees and almost 20,000 orchids reintroduced throughout the reserve. The aim for the future is to take this reserve’s virtuous model even further, continuing to create a positive impact with its activities. By 2031, Guerlain and the Tianzi Nature Reserve are set to double this surface area, rolling out reforestation practices across a total of 60 hectares.
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